Friday, October 29, 2010
Stuff
Unable to throw things away, my collection of property grew and grew. My childhood room was like a strange museum of precious treasures, rocks from the Nature Store, replica batting helmets, sports team pennants and of course those key chains. Even today, I struggle to throw things away – evidenced by the 6 pack of Coca-Cola commemorating the Red Sox 2004 World Series Victory sitting in my bedroom at my parents house. Yet by and large I feel I've stemmed the tide, or I had, and things were no longer coming in.
The change from pack-rat to accumulatory nihilist was gradual, starting with my travels in Europe, growing stronger in my domestic roaming, but likely peaked in Shanghai. China, after all, is where cheap stuff comes from. If I was going to accumulate cheap stuff anywhere, it was there. I could have bought a gazillion little Chinese trinkets, lanterns, pictures, tea cups, replica weapons, and just about anything else, but I simply purchased clothing, which has a functionality not inherent in the static display pieces of my youth. The thought of sending all my stuff home wasn't particularly appealing, and my meager salary seemed better spent on food and travel. What good was a 3rd tea mug? Did I really need a Mao action figure? I was shocked to discover that although I'd arrived in the manufacturing capital of the world, I'd weened myself off purchasing.
Back in the US, nothing much changed for the first year, as I had no job or money to shop with. Then suddenly I've become fully employed, at a bank no less. I have disposable cash for the first time in my life. And I see the things beginning to accumulate again. I bought a Wii. I bought a suit jacket. I bought shoes. I bought a new messenger bag (well, actually my parents bought that one... but I eagerly did the shopping). Previously I would contemplate a simple purchase as a new pair of dockers for weeks on end, scouting the coupons and newspaper ads, but now I buy pants on a whim! I feel myself slipping back into childhood Dan. Dan the purchaser of crap. I wish it not to be so, but the hold of the materialistic American lifestyle is strong, and I fear I can't fight it much longer. I'm regressing. There is no way out. We cannot get out. Drums, drums in the deep. They are coming.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
You Never Know
Sometimes the set up requires morning preparation, which ruins the evenings surpirse. One day I walked to work and suddenly towering 7 stories above me in the heart of the square was a replica statue of 'the kiss' between a US sailor and a young woman at the close of WWII. Another day I discovered a rocket car with wings paid for by the US Navy. Glad to see my tax dollars are being put to good use! On a duller note, Mazda once filled the walking plazas with cars to look at and video games to test drive. Compared to rocket cars, it was quite the snoozer. Besides, I prefer stumbling across something in the evening completely unaware.
Food based events are my favorite, naturally. Dove chocolate had a series of booths set up one day, with people handing out fistfuls of all types of chocolates, while others distributed chocolate chip cookies with a Dove Chocolate baked on top. I took 3. In early summer a giant food tasting fair popped up. Restaurants from all over the city were preparing small sample plates for 2-3 dollars a plate. I never learned if there was an associated charitable cause, other than giving tourists a break from the boiled hot dogs. Ever since these events I've held my breath every day I approached, hoping to snag a free chocolate, free sample, free taste of anything!
Naturally there are other events in Times Square too. Such as 'The Event'. The NBC TV show premier was shown live on giant video screens in Times Square. Or there are always people who think 'the event' is coming, like the surprisingly aggressive Jesus proponents with oversized sail-like signs preaching out there today. Then there is the 'Naked Cowboy', who, and I know this might shock you, I never, ever stop for. (Apparently he's running for political office I hear, but from what I hear his campaign advisors are struggling to keep him briefed.) Yes, you can usually count on Times Square to find someone who is a little further out there than the rest of the populous.
You never know what you'll find in Times Square, which is just another reason why its so famous. It's the New York dream – Anything Can Happen. Its wild and untamed, or at least as wild and untamed as a few city blocks with more Police per meter than anywhere outside of the Dunkin' Doughnuts Tasting Center. You might get fed, you might get entertained, you might get chastised. You just never know.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Port Authority
Port Authority, as it is lovingly called, isn't much to look at. 6 stories tall, mostly concrete with exposed steel beams, the hulking space is bigger on top than it is on the bottom, hanging out over the sidewalks which surround it. Situated on 2 full city blocks, the size is so large that 43rd street runs through the middle of it. Although one side faces the New York Times building on 8th ave and 41st street, the other side abuts a dirty part of town, strangled by the entrance to the Lincoln Tunnel, neglected by the affluent neighborhoods to the north and south. Make no mistake, Port Authority is an ugly hulk of construction.
Yet I love it; it fascinates me. Public spaces and their construction fascinate me. How do the buildings reflect the values of the culture that constructed the Coliseum in Rome, Notre Dame in Paris, the Pyramids in Mexico, Dallas Stadium and the Beijing Airport? What does it say about New York that they built Port Authority? What is it that makes me so excited?
Inside the building is no better than out, aesthetically speaking. The dim yellow lights and tiled floors seem to be suggesting this area is a large restroom. The retail stores want it to be a shopping mall. Tough coffee shops predominate the selection of bars, convenience stores, clothing, music, sunglasses and retail bank office (take out a mortgage at Port Authority!), emit the inescapable feeling that some people must treat the building like a shopping mall, though I'm sure only Michael Blomberg knows who shops there. There is a bowling alley and an arcade to entertain, and I wouldn't be surprised if they tried putting in a movie theater. Signs around the building encourage guests to explore all that the building has to offer. Most guests, however are only interested in leaving.
Most of the traffic the building sees is from a devote class of commuters, who pile in in the mornings and out at night, rushing to the office or home to loved ones. With ramps leading directly to and from the Lincoln Tunnel, most commuters west of the Hudson unfortunate enough to not take the train pass through Port Authority. Nobody wants to be there, it simply is a bottleneck, much like all tunnels, which people must pass through.
Dominating the upper levels of the building, the designers streamlined the commuter experience to be as painless as possible. All morning buses arrive on the top most layer, 5 stories above the street. There, next to a series of stairs and escalators designed to clear people away as quick as possible, everyone rapidly alights the bus whenever it stops. There are no gates here. Down below on floors 3 and 4, the evening commute comes into swing as lines snake down hallways next to dozens and dozens of gates. Buses upload passengers, depart, and are replaced instantly (when things are working) to pick up more passengers and continue the mass evacuation of commuters from Manhattan. Buses above buses, hallways, gates and escalators, Port Authority busts into activity like the cleaning scene in Marry Poppins where the toys were flying in every direction at once, settling miraculously quickly with everything in its place. Commuters like that. They know the one place they want to get, and they want to get their quick.
But Port Authority isn't just for commuters. From Port Authority you could catch a bus taking you anywhere in America, or even the Americas, should a bus trip to Patagonia suit your fancy. The possibilities are endless. There are not one, but two basements to the building chocked full of buses heading to points yonder. Everyone in line here too, is eager to get out of Dodge while the getting is good. In fact, the only happy people you see are the ones getting off the long distance buses, eager to have been released from whatever tin bucket they just arrived in. At least someone is smiling at Port Authority.
Someone besides me that is. While it would be easy to weep at such a sight, a manufactured environment of stores, set there to prey upon weary travelers who want nothing more than to be somewhere else, I find it refreshing in many ways. Most bus terminals are terrible, soulless places, so why can't this one aspire to be more? The building wasn't content with being a mere bus terminal, it built itself up to be a spot for entertainment, food and shopping. It's even been gentrified recently with the inclusion of a Thursday Farmer's Market. Besides, late at night the place is a refuge - its open 24 hours, with buses leaving and arriving throughout the night (believe me, I once arrived on a bus from DC at 2am for a layover departure to Boston at 4am). Its a structure that could only exist in New York. The building never takes a holiday, never takes a break, and never shuts its doors. People are always coming, going, eating, drinking, shopping or sitting around looking homeless (some of which actually are homeless, most are just delayed Greyhound passengers). Neither overly gritty or naively pleasant, the building in many ways exemplifies America at the start of the 21st century. That's what I think about when I think of Port Authority. It makes me smile.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Kuidaore
The next day I thought I'd practice Kuidaore. Initially I had been leaning towards Sushi, or Ramen or something Japanese, but as I looked over the high brow sushi offerings, I realized that I was barking up the wrong tree. The Kuidaore I saw on TV wasn't high end food, but an Asian version of 'Diners, Drive-ins and Dives'. I couldn't get high-falutin sushi; I need a food of the people, something that sticks to your ribs and feeds the masses. I needed Southern BBQ, and thankfully 2 blocks away was a cart which could supply a lip smacking beef brisket sandwich smothered in sauce. But one sandwich can hardly cause ruin, so I needed more. I needed Waffles and Dinges.
In 2010 Zagat included NYC street carts for the first time in its history, and Waffles and Dinges is the highest rated cart. Serving up authentic Belgian style waffles (with your choice of 2 styles of dough), 'The Waffle Cart' gained fame in the Food Network's 'Throwdown with Bobby Flay', when the owners went head to head with the celebrity chef and emerged victorious with the best waffle. I chose 'The Throwdown Waffle', winner of the competition, which is an authentic style Belgian waffle topped with a magical spice spread and whip cream. I cannot describe the spread, called sperkullous, in better words, for no adjective exists in the English or any tongue of man to adequately describe the cinnamon and nutmeg flavored ambrosia. Surely I'm on my way to bringing about my ruin.
Alas, had I only known then what I know now, that BBQ and waffles barely scrape the surface of Kuidaore. The very next day, in the pretext of doing good charitable work, I volunteered to help the New York City Food Bank... by helping out at the fund raising New York City Food and Wine Event. Arriving at a quarter to 9 on a Saturday morning at the 54th Street Pier in the Chealsea section of Manhattan, I pleased to discover I would be working at 'The Grand Tasting', an event where high rollers can spend hours sampling specialty food products, fine restaurant offerings and high quality booze. Oh yes, there was a lot of booze. As a volunteer, however, I was stationed just outside the tent, out of sight and smell of the food, collecting email addresses on a clipboard for a raffle. You can't win them all. Besides, obviously volunteers couldn't just parade around with ticket buyers partaking in the same delights.
Or so I thought. After working the clipboard for an hour, an organizer who shall remain nameless gave me the golden ticket to Kuidaore. I was told, 'Take a break and enjoy some samples. And this off the record, but if you take your volunteer T-shirt off, you can enjoy the non food options.”
What more could I have wanted? Leave from my post, a tent full of food and nudge-nudge-wink-wink permission to 'sample' the assorted beverages. I raced though every table, which only took about an hour, eating everything from braised short-rib (best thing I ate all day) to tuna tar-tar wrapped in a dandelion green to grilled octopus. I enjoyed and learned there are double chocolate and coconut flavored Ferrero-Rocher, but the originals taste best. I discovered lovely mustards, and delectable dark, Mayan styled chocolates. I even had pomegranate ice cream topped with pomegranate seeds. If Hades had resembled the food tent, I scarcely know how Persephone resisted so long.
If the food hadn't ensured my ruin, the drinks did. From margaritas to cachaca raspberry prosecco to apple spiked rum, I sampled what I could, while avoiding drawing attention or drinking too much. I steered clear of the wine, because all the 'paying guests' had a wine glass draped around their necks to fill, but I had none, so I was forced to accept the little cups of mixed drinks the booths passed out. The little mini bar hop reminded me of the Chumbawumba song, and reminded me to try something other than beer and wine sometimes.
But fear not, if you thought my ruin would be brought about in any sense beyond SBS (stuffed belly syndrome). Sincerely, it was not even as bad as it was at the Vendy's, but perhaps the exhilarating feeling that I wasn't really supposed to helped contribute. I wrapped up my tasting and sauntered back to the volunteer tent, where I was assigned the important task of holding up a sign saying Trisha Yearwood would be signing her cook book at 4pm. Nobody else could hold that sign like I could. Perhaps it was because I held it knowing I had archived that nirvana-like state – Kuidaore.
Monday, October 11, 2010
In the Canyon of Heroes
What's a parade for? I mean, we can name the big ones: Macy's Thanksgiving Day, Rose Bowl, and all the St. Patrick's Day parades. Even today there was a massive Columbus Day Parade here in New York that was more of a celebration of Italian Heritage than anything else (or so I'm told, I was at work). Just as famous, or infamous, may be the Puerto Rican Day Parade, also known as the 'don't let your daughters out unsupervised day' by some. But all these are year in, year out events, celebrating all the people and heritage of a culture, not an honorary event, as some parades are. In New York, these national day parades take place in Midtown, where as the honorary parades take place downtown in the aptly named “Canyon of Heroes”. A few weeks back I found myself walking up Whitehall towards Broadway and found myself at the start of the 'canyon' and discovered that every parade there has a sidewalk placard listing the date and the honored party. I was intrigued, what does it take to earn an honorary parade in New York?
The first recorded parade was for the centennial of Washington's inauguration. Seeing as he was inaugurated less than a block from the parade route, it seems like a fitting starting point. In addition to our great founding General/President, wartime parades dot the history of the canyon. Teddy Roosevelt, New York's native son, received one before his presidency for his efforts in the Spanish-American War. In the 1920's each of the US, UK and French commanders during The Great War received a parade. Then again after WWII, there was a glut of parades honoring leaders, soldiers and other veterans. The Vietnam Vets had to wait until 1985 for their parade, as opposed to the Persian Gulf War Vets who received a parade relatively quickly in 1991, but faster than the Korean War Vets, who also received a 1991 parade. As of yet, there has been no parade for the new wars in the Middle East, and I don't see that changing any time soon. The city has seemingly lost it's lust for military parades.
The other largest portion of parades has been for visiting foreign dignitaries. Naturally the Queen of England, Nelson Mandela and Pope John Paul II were given parades. Yet throughout the past century there have been some odd recipients: The crown prince of Sweden (do they still have a prince?) and the king of Nepal (I know they don't have one anymore). And finally some recipients that just are unbelievable; the Shah of Iran, the PM and then 10 years later the President of Pakistan. True, the last three were from '49, '50 and '61, but I can't but help wonder if we'd played our cards better then, our relationships with those countries would be better now.
Of course the parades provide insight into what the society valued at different times, what captured its imagination. In the 1920's there were multiple parades for great fliers, Charles Lindbergh and the like. The 20's also featured parades for the first woman and then again for the first mother, to swim the English Chanel. I find it hard to imagine a parade for someone like that today. The 60's had a host of astronaut related parades. Then there is my oddball favorite parades themes: the 1947 Aid to Europe Parade, and then the 1949 Thank you for the Aid from Europe Parade. Can you imagine an aid to Haiti parade? Maybe it's the impracticality of incurring massive expenses for a parade, then donating whatever is leftover to charity, but is it different than the Aid Concerts we see on TV? I guess the venue for that type of thing has changed with new technology. Parades aren't what they used to be.
Nor are they as common as they used to be. Back in the decade following WWII, the city was churning out 3-4 parades per year. In the past decade we've seen 3 total. In fact, the only thing these days that seem to generate a ticker-tape parade is a local sports team championship.
Since the Persian and Korean War Veteran Parades of 1991, there have been 9 parades, and all but one for the spaceman John Glenn have been for sports teams. Back in the earlier parts of the 20th century, parades for tennis stars, such as winners of the British Open, or Olympic medalists were rather common. Now team sports have taken the lead, and a parade to celebrate individual accomplishments aren't even discussed. Yet the first team parade wasn't until 1954, when the New York Giants (the baseball team) won the pennant. Or to think about it another way, despite Derek Jeter participating in 4 ticker-tape parades, Babe Ruth never had one, yet Eli Manning, Sammy Sosa and the President of Tunisia all have. We all know the country has changed, but sometimes its hard to see how our values have changed. Walking up Broadway helps bring the history back.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Pee Wee Football
The field next to my house is home to pee-wee football every weekend and most weeknights. That is it's only purpose, as the gates are locked and you can't get onto the field if the team isn't there. No other sports allowed. Football Only.
Sunday afternoons the massive parking lot can't contain the cars, which begin to work their way up the street, upon nearby grassy patches, and anywhere not expressly prohibited. The stands, built on both sides of the fields, fill up and the remaining fans/parents spread all the way up and down the sidelines in folding chairs. These games are pretty clearly a big deal, what with the attendance and money devoted to resources.
Besides, the fans are more interested in the outcome of a youth sporting than I've ever seen before. They care about winning and loosing, and aren't afraid to ruffle a few feathers along the way. One gentleman, sitting far away down the sidelines either for his benefit or the teams, saw fit to remind the coach with each failed offensive play that, “you've got more than one running back”, and “you can't always use speed, you've got to use POWER”. Evidently he was not pleased with the choice of personnel on the field. I wonder what he'd say to the rules I remember from little league requiring everyone to play the infield for at least one inning. It probably didn't warm his heart that the Edison Jets were blanked 21-0 that day.
The result couldn't be blamed on the coaches lack of desire, even if it the loss could be laid at his feet for other reasons. I heard the halftime speech. And calling it a speech seem generous, because it was more of a rant. As I listened in I had hoped to catch a speech the likes of one in the movie Miracle where the coach lifts up the teams hopes and confidence. Instead my ears were greeted with the coach chewing out most units on the team with lines like, 'Offensive line raise your hand. I can't see you. I don't think you're here, because I didn't see one out there. The offensive line is supposed to block, and nobody did that.” He followed that gem by turning his back and letting the assistant coaches finish the halftime talk, not that any of it did any good. Maybe teaching the youth how to block would serve better than telling them what a poor job they're doing, but then again I'm not a football coach. And he really did look like he wanted to win.
But at what cost to the kids? Late in the game the coach took a player out, chewing him out for missing a blocking assignment. The boy walked back to the bench, threw his helmet against the fence, followed by his gloves, and sat down on the brink of tears. Confidence and sportsmanship did not seem to be the guiding principals of this team.
Have I mentioned these kids were probably about 11? Which means the psycological scaring isn't even the most dangerous part of the game. Every journal article you read on youth football these days relates how much more dangerous football is for children under 12 than it already is for grownups. The effects of brain damage, concussions and the like increase dramatically for youth because the brain casing (or skull for you non-medical types) isn't fully formed yet. Why any parent would want to subject their child to this danger is beyond me.
Yet I can't help but admire the entire institution just a little. The day was beautiful and families were out in force together to support their children. When I say children, I mean both sons and daughters, as accompanying the football team was a team of 15 or so similarly aged female cheerleaders. Usually I'd be dogging and mocking cheerleaders of any sort, but I can't this time. The girls seemed to be really happy out there, with well practiced cheers and even a halftime routine involving lifts and a throw. Plus there were older cheerleaders present in the stands, supporting the younger girls. Friends, families and football – it all sounds pretty nice in that light.
Unfortunately, I can't just see it in that light. After the 11 year old game was the 12 year old, then the 13s and 14s. I didn't stay to watch, I'd seen enough. Family time is great, but ballet, soccer and trips to the museum offer family time without the possible brain damage, even if they don't assure children will be spared psychological scaring.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
The Vendy's
Under a beautiful, clear September sky, warm yet crisp like only September can be, 18 marvelous food carts and a few hundred eager food fans gathered on Governors Island. Sold out for weeks ahead of time, the Vendy's were accessible only by ferry, as they were situated on a small speck of land just south of Manhattan which has been a fort, a rallying point for class revolution and a prison. Once inside the gates, all the food from all the carts, as well as all the beer, wine, soda and water you could drink was gratis for 4 hours of Epicurean enjoyment. I believe everyone left heavier than they came.
The award categories were divided into 3 groups: Rookie of the Year, Desert and the Main Event. Each category had 5 nominees, with 3 extra 'guest' carts up from Philadelphia. There was a panel of expert judges, who decided who went home with the 'Vendy Cup' (yes, it's a real trophy and I can assure you it is very, very coveted by those in the industry), yet there was also a 'people's choice category on which the public voted. I'm both proud and ashamed to say I tried 16 of the 18 carts, but at least that made my vote well informed.
The Rookie Carts were, as newcomers are known to be, unpredictable. 2 of the carts were vegetarian/vegan. Shockingly, neither had a line, which isn't to say they weren't good. They were good... for vegan food, but if that isn't a backhanded compliment, then New Jersey isn't a hip place for squares. Also in category was a Taiwanese Dumpling Truck, but it didn't resonate with me. Then again, I'll admit to being a bit more snobbish about my dumplings than other laowai (or 'old outsiders' for you foreign devils). Of course there were good rookies too, like the bbq Mexican cart and Greek soulvaki truck, who won the category. These carts added nice variety, but I don't know how many will be invited back after if they have to compete with the big boys.
The main event featured 5 carts with food from five styles: Mexican, Greek, Moroccan, Venezuelan and Austrian. I'd had the Austrian style Schnitzel cart before, and I adore it. Everyone does. Schnitzel with a side of warm potato salad and a beet and feta salad? Sign me up. Yet having had them before, I felt greater need to try the other offerings. The Moroccan truck served up a chilled mixed berry soup, which was the best thing I tasted all day (and won them my vote). The Venezuelan truck had a slow-cooked pork in a fried tortilla offering, and frankly I worry about anyone whose heart doesn't go pitter-patter when the words 'slow-cooked pork' are mentioned. Then again, I'm worry about the ability of people's hearts to continue pitter-pattering when that cones up too often. The Mexican truck was either too bland or spicy for my tastes, which brings us to the Greek truck. I had passed on the King of Falafel most of the day, because Greek style street carts are a dime a dozen (or 5 bucks for a platter) in the city. By the time I tried it, all I had was a spicy, but overly unimpressive falafel. Maybe I was too full when I ate it. Maybe I ordered the wrong thing. Whatever it was, I didn't seem to agree with both the judges or the people, who both voted them champs. I guess there is no accounting for taste.
Now, the Desert category, is always to everyone's taste. With 2 ice cream offerings, a slushy offering and an asian delight. The winner, a high end slushy cart with gourmet flavorings had a line over 75 people long! The line at 'The Big Gay Ice Cream Truck' was nearly as long, but I couldn't stomach waiting for a full cone of soft serve ice cream, even if the toppings were brilliantly unique (wasabi dust or mulled strawberry compote). The Asian Dragon Beard Candy was a nice change; they pulled palm sugar until it was like a recently torn apart silk cocoon, then wrapped it around a spoonful of peanuts and coconut. Most unique taste thing I ate all day, and delicious to boot! Getting my vote for king of desserts was Guerrilla Ice Cream for one reason – they made a chocolate ice cream I loved. Not being a chocolate ice cream fan, I couldn't resist the %72 cocao with port wine flavored ice cream topped with cashews and a bruleed banana. Strangely I wasn't super-fussed by their lemongrass-ginger ice cream topped with coconut shavings and disliked the massala chai ice cream topped with candied fennel seeds. Yet the chocolate ice cream was so good it carried the day. Actually all the deserts carried the day. Then again, they usually do.
If I could have one do over it would be this – I had to go alone, but if ever there was a social event, this is it. Next year I want to bring 3 friends and a blanket. Nobody should eat a full portion of all the food they serve, it should be shared with friends, relaxing on a blanket on a beautiful day with a glass of wine or beer. The event is perfect. The food is perfect. Now I just need to bring some friends. Any volunteers?