Thursday, September 23, 2010
Signs
Midtown beats you over the head with advertisements. I remember from my earliest trips to New York being amazed at the glitz, the glamor and the ubiquity of dazzling, flashing billboards. Times Square is the root of a vine of billboards, stretching down every street and avenue in the area. Every surface reminds you to buy, drink, and watch.
Mostly watch. I've been surprised by how many of the billboards are for entertainment. The area above the Broadway Ticket office is covered with signs for every show with a curtain, usually promising a 'foot stomping good time', 'an unforgeable experience' or a show 'not quite as good as the movie'. Then over there are a collection of ABC screens, which makes sense because it is their flagship location for Good Morning America. Then there are signs for NBC. For the baseball post season on TBS, for HBO's Dexter, for Nurse Betty, for channels I haven't even heard of. What is it about Times Square that makes for such good TV advertising?
Near my office are two massive billboards which in the past 4 months have shown nothing but TV and movie advertisements, yet have rotated every 3 weeks or so. That isn't even the impressive part. What's most amazing is that they take down the advertisement a week before the movie is actually released. They don't wait until the movie is out to move on to the next big thing, they're already pushing the next big thing before they even had a big thing in the first place. The spot hosted ads for The Sorcerer Apprentice, Charlie St. Cloud, Scott Pilgrim, Devil, and most recently The Event, which I need to give some credit to for actually still being up when the show premiered, unlike the other names on the list.
The Event advertising has been memorable in other ways. Last week as I walked through the square, I noticed a man in a white shirt and black tie on a soap box shouting warnings of the end of the world, or so I thought. As I got closer, I realized he was simply warning everyone of 'The Event, on Monday Night.' I felt cheated, that New York now needed to pay people to act crazy, rather than utilize its ample supply of naturally crazy citizens. In the end NBC had the last laugh, I watched the first half of the show Monday, before realizing I just didn't care. Score that one for the advertisers. Thank goodness they're not 10 times more powerful than they already are.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
A Glimpse
I don't live in New York. I work there, and I try to see what I can, but I don't live in New York, not even in spirit. A fact most plainly exemplified by the reactions of New Yorkers upon learning where I live: either their eyes open wide and their mouths form donuts in shock at how far away I live, or they continue to look dumbfounded, unsure where Edison, NJ even is. This past weekend, I caught a glimpse of how the other half, the true New Yorkers live, and it has allowed me to dream.
Coming in Saturday just after lunch, I met some college friends visiting the city for the weekend. We rented bikes and coasted along the Hudson, riding from 56th st all the way to The Battery. We passed cruise ships and air craft carriers, party piers and parks. To our left whizzed landmark after landmark. First the Empire State Building, next the Chelsea Highline, then the World Trade Center sight. Finally Lady Liberty came into view, and if we'd continued, we'd have seen the Brooklyn Bridge. Quite a nice day, but hardly the part that makes me jealous.
We returned to a friends apartment on the upper east side, blocks from the subway, but miles closer than I am. From there we walked around the corner to a BBQ shop for dinner, which is rumored to be owned by Justin Timberlake himself (he wasn't there, so I couldn't ask him). Completing our dinner, we hoped in a cap, whipped through Central Park to Hell's Kitchen, and another friends apartment, for drinks and a visit to a hip basement bar nearby. I eventually retreated to the safety and comfort of my own bed in the suburbs, but couldn't help feel jealous of people who could walk to and from work without needing a 60 gallon pack.
First thing the next morning I was back on the train into the city, meeting other friends for brunch by Union Square. On the walk from Penn Station to the restaurant, I stumbled upon a great Tea Store, a delicious looking Fried Chicken Joint, a hip Plate and Glassware store, a public exhibition of sculptures by leading architects, and the colorful characters of the lower fashion district. Although I had to return home after brunch, others went to a beer garden in Queens. A Beer garden in New York, is there anything this city doesn't have? And that's just what I found in a few hours before lunch!
Yet the largest draw is likely the people. Everyone dreams of visiting New York. People from other countries come here, my Irish cousins came here, my Spanish exchange student in High School came here, my girlfriends classmates from Australia came here. New York is where the action is. It's happening, its where people want to be.
New Jersey is not. Nobody wants to go to Jersey. If it wasn't for my lovely girlfriend and my comfortable apartment (both of which could someday move to the city) I wouldn't want to go to Jersey. Thankfully my girlfriends company (coupled with Netflix and a Wii) make life good. Just not as exciting as New York. So for now, I'll have to make do with the glimpses that I get,
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Trains
When I first came to New Jersey, my commute was by bus. Depending on your take, you could say commuting by bus is like (a) a box of chocolates or (b) russian roulette – you never know what you're going to get. Some days the commute is swift, and quick, other days a well placed fender bender can back traffic up for miles. Admittedly on the bus, I didn't really care because I was seated, warm, etc. It's just annoying to not know when you would actually get to work, and how late you'd be. I believe most people would agree consistency is a good thing with a commute, which makes the bus far from ideal. Yet I will give credit where its due; the bus could be faster than the train, and I am personally enamored with the Port Authority Bus Terminal, but thats a different post. Thats as much credit as I'm willing to give. The train is way better.
Every morning I wake up, walk to the train, which takes me into the city before completing my commute to the office. We live a leisurely 10 minute stroll from the train station, or a diligent 8 minute walk, or a desperate 5 minute sprint. The goal is to arrive at the station at exactly the same time as the train. There are 3 trains which come within 10 minutes of each other each morning. I aim for the second because its less crowded (the early birds catch the first one, the sleepy heads catch the last). Once we've arrived in New York, everyone stumbles out, and I walk the last 20 blocks to my office. Aside from my obsessive interest in the second train, it isn't actually that unique of a routine.
My interest in the empty second train is not rooted in the fact that I'm anti-social in the morning, which my girlfriend will attest I most certainly am, but in the process of seat selection. I'm extremely particular in the mornings, and not so much in the afternoons. In my mind, the golden seats are the seats on the left side of the front car where there is wall, instead of window. There are only 3 seats that fit this description on any train, so you can see why I prefer the empty train. The advantages are numerous – the front car is closest to the stairs at Penn Station in New York, the left side faces north west, so the sun doesn't shine in my eyes, and the wall-less seats offer better head support for sleeping. See, that's what it's all about. If I've got 50 extra minutes to sleep on the train, suddenly the commute starts to look like a gift! I drag my tired butt out of bed early just to be sure I make that train. It's the height future gratification, cutting bed sleep short for extra train sleep!
In many ways, surviving a commute is about mindset. I try to see the positives, like the extra sleep, the chance to read or write a blog on the ride home in the evenings, the monthly pass which lets me ride in on the weekends for free. Plus now I know when I'm getting into the office. So really, my commute is a gift! I can hear you shaking your head sadly and asking, “but what if you just lived closer and had more time to sleep in your own bed and be at home in the evenings?” And I say I'd rather my cheering section be an optimist – just like Samwise and the Marys.
Monday, September 6, 2010
Ghanan Sellers
Though initially irritating, these salespeople make up an integral layer of the city in my mind now. Hailing largely from African countries (predominantly Ghana, which I learned during the World Cup), these jobs support what must be a rather extensive immigrant population. They're as much a part of the New York story as any other immigrant class. Plus, once I'd learned who they profiled (and how to avoid it), the realization that they were just trying to make a living like everyone else led me to a peaceful, even jealous, understanding of these men and women who stand around Times Square and pester tourists all day.
As salespeople, they're success hinges on pitching their bus company to those most likely to purchase it, which means tourists. So what do they look for? I've heard tourists from all over the world, from Australians to Oklahomans, exclaim with surprise, “do we really look like tourists?”. And the simple answer is almost always yes. The first tip-off is clothing. At 9am there are 2 types of people in the square, businessmen and women scuttling off to work, and tourists. The businessfolk wear suits, or shirts and slacks at the least. The tourists wear anything else, so just because you're not wearing shorts, sneakers and an Ohio State Jersey, doesn't mean you don't look like a tourist. It's a winless battle for out-of-towners, largely because if you're in Times Square and not going to an office, especially at 9am, you must be a tourist.
The other difference between tourists and non tourists in Times Square is how they interact with their environment. Tourists often have a lost, overwhelmed look about them. They linger longer, without deadline or agenda, free to take in all the blinking signs, characters, landmarks, and buildings which assault the senses on Broadway between 42nd and 48th streets. Most blatantly of all, tourists look up at the buildings. They actually look up and study the buildings. I confess, I do too, they're wondrous and amazing structures which, though they seem sturdy and established as mountains or canyons, didn't exist 100 years ago.
And really, if you can't be labeled a tourist in Times Square, where can you be? Being called out as a tourist isn't all bad. Besides, lots of tourists sign up for these buses and seem to genuinely enjoy them, so everyone wins. Just remember 'locals' wear business attire and don't look at the buildings. I however, encourage everyone to spend time studying the skyscrapers and dazzling signs of Times Square. But if the salespeople catch you looking up at them, and you're not in a suit, you're getting a sales pitch.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Coney Island
What struck me first was what I'd somehow expected least: the vastness of the beach. The stories of the Coney Island Boardwalk surely hint that there must be surf there, yet I wasn't prepared for the sheer size of the beach. Easily 75 yards wide at high tide, the beach stretches a good mile or more down the seashore. The day we visited the masses congregated along the waters edge, which left the beach feeling empty due to the wide empty stretch from the boardwalk to the people, but then quite dense once the towels, umbrellas and coolers were reached. Given the startling lack of shade, and the summer heat, I can't blame everyone for wanting to be in the water.
The best part of this beach, however, is the people watching. Rare is the city with a true beach on its subway lines, or at least a city so big and vibrant as New York. This leaves the sand and boardwalk littered with all shapes, sizes and nationalities of people. You can see hipsters sporting jeans, vests and fedoras laying next to a large hairy New York Italian next to a young Asian couple out sight seeing. Poor and more well off, they're all there, which makes sitting on a bench in the shade even more rewarding.
Of course the beach is great, Coney Islands great boardwalk rides are what made it famous. Retooled with modern games and rides, the waterside parks are still a good time, even if the luster has wained with America's access to rides has increased with mega theme parks like 6 Flags, Bush Gardens and Cedar Point (my favorite). Set up more like a summer carnival than a theme park, the rides are all pay-as-you-ride, so if walking around watching others ride is your thing, it won't cost you a dime, but what's the fun in that? Riding one seemed like a requirement for visiting, and why ride anything but the granddaddy of them all: the rickety wooden roller coaster.
Named the Cyclone, and having been operating for over 75 years, the roller coaster is the oldest ride on the boardwalk still in use, easily the most terrifying. Though less high than modern coasters, even modern wooden ones, the allure of riding such a historic structure seems. Strapped in and climbing to the top of the first hill, there is a sweeping realization that this isn't a slow ride, as the chain clicks double time up the hill, and the sweeping view must be enjoyed because its gone in a blink. At the peak most of the cart puts their hands up for that first hill, then the beating starts. Plunging and twisting down the first hill, the wood, the lack of shoulder support, the gap between knees and the restraining bar give a feeling of falling unlike that on other coasters. Crashing to the bottom of the first hill, then up and around the second, every muscle strains to keep to keep body within the cart, and not somewhere among the broken, abandoned sunglasses below. A few brave souls keep their hands up for the second hill, but by the third hill survival is foremost on everyones minds, and hands stay down, gripping to the safety bar, muttering last minute prayers, begging the roller coaster spare their lives. In a flash, the ride is done, though en route the duration seemed startlingly prolonged. Nothing like unbridled terror to make time slow down. My knees were wobbly afterwards. I loved it.
Really, I quite liked Coney Island. Were it not so far my home, I'd return more often. Sure you could nitpick its negatives: no shade, the 'landmark' discontinued old rides boarder on eyesores for want of paint, the food stores price gouge like you were at a ballpark. The biggest negative surprise is the lack of seaside restaurants and bars to enjoy a cool, shady drink. Yet, the prestige, the outrageous mixing of people, the rides, the atmosphere and the classic food make up for everything (for those scoring at home, we enjoyed hot dogs, corn dogs and a funnel cake). There most certainly are better, more entertaining places to visit in New York, but how bad can a trip to Coney Island be if it's like a day at the beach?